Daryl's Manifesto

"Disturb nothing but air, take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints."

 

A new manifesto for Irish Climbing

By

Daryl O' Toole

 

  1. Thou shalt not use bolts: Few routes in Ireland cannot be climbed by means of a top rope. Therefore there is no need to use bolts to make the route safe as this can be done from above.
  2. Leave the rocks as you found them: In the beginning there were three rockclimbing grades, Easy moderate and difficult. There are now 19 on the open ended extreme scale. What was impossible 15 years ago is now possible without the use of bolts. After all it was believed that no man could run the mile in under four minutes. We should not set limits on the abilities of those who will follow us. The greatest climber the world has ever known does exist. The hardest climb belongs to them, we have no right to steal it from them.
  3. Safe climbing happens indoors: climbing by its nature is dangerous. We must reject those who impose restrictions on its danger. Attempts to sanitize climbing defeat the essence of climbing. True safety can only be achieved through good practice, experience, ability and belief. Encouraging the incompetent by making it easy gives them a false confidence in their abilities and promotes delusions of adequacy.
  4. It is the duty of climbers to teach those new to it: climbing is not a formally organized sport. Those who are experienced have a duty to pass on good practice to beginners. Each of us must point the neophyte on the road, by proper training but it must be for themselves to discover their own potential.
  5. Subjective danger is the climbers own problem: it is sometimes possible to reduce the effects of objective danger (such as loose rock, rope failure, equipment failure or lightening). Only climbers can challenge their own fears. Five foot off the ground can challenge some people while 5,000 foot up the Eiger nordwand is heaven for others. We must not legislate for the lowest common denominator but for the highest level of achievement.
  6. Climbers should have some level of environmental awareness: If a segment of the society who wallow in the tranquility of the outdoors are unable to discipline themselves to preserve it; then why would we expect anyone to respect our environment. 

Date: January 2000

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